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Retinol is not an enemy but a friend, even if your skin is sensitive
Retinol is considered the gold standard in skincare: it fights wrinkles, evens out skin tone, reduces pigmentation, clears pores and stimulates cell renewal. But it also has a reputation as an “aggressive” ingredient, especially for sensitive skin.
Redness, flaking, irritation – these side effects often frighten owners of sensitive skin types. Whether retinol is really contraindicated, doctor Joshua Zeichner told on his page.
What retinol is and why it is feared
Retinol is a derivative of vitamin A, which when it enters the skin is transformed into retinoic acid, the active form that acts at the cellular level. It is this transformation that promotes powerful skin rejuvenation, reducing wrinkles, acne and pigmentation. However, active cell renewal occurs along the way, which can cause irritation, especially in people with thin, sensitive, reactive skin.
All you need to do is find the right form. Products containing retinyl esters, such as retinyl palmitate, are modified forms of retinol that are much better tolerated by the skin. Once applied, they gradually transform into the active form of vitamin A and it is this gradualness that makes them much gentler and suitable even for sensitive skin.
Which form of retinol to choose for sensitive skin
- Retinyl palmitate is the mildest form of retinoid. It is suitable for beginners and for those with very sensitive or couperose-prone skin. The advantage is a low risk of irritation, the disadvantage is a less pronounced effect that develops more slowly.
- Retinal is an intermediate form that is more likely to convert to retinoic acid than retinyl palmitate, but is still gentle. More effective than retinyl, however more active.
- Encapsulated retinol is a new technology where retinol molecules are “packed” into special carriers that gradually release the active ingredient. This reduces irritation and makes the use of retinol comfortable even for sensitive skin.
How to safely introduce retinol into your skincare routine
- Start with the lowest concentration possible. Choose products with a low retinol content: 0.1-0.3%. This is enough to get the first results without damaging your skin.
- Use the “buffering” method. Apply moisturiser before and after retinol – this creates a protective barrier and reduces the risk of irritation. The method is also called “retinol sandwich”.
- Limit the frequency. Start with 1-2 times a week, gradually increasing to every other night or even daily use if your skin responds well.
- Use retinol in the evening. Retinoids make the skin more sensitive to the sun, so daytime use is undesirable.
- Combine with gentle ingredients. Soothing and moisturising ingredients such as niacinamide, allantoin, hydrolysed hyaluronic acid perfectly complement retinol and reduce its potential aggressive effects.
What not to do
- Do not combine retinol with acids (AHA/BHA) or vitamin C in the first few weeks of use.
- Do not use retinol on damaged or severely irritated skin.
- Do not start retinol therapy while on a sun holiday or when actively sunbathing.
When to expect results
Retinol does not have an instant effect – the first noticeable changes usually appear after 4-8 weeks of regular use. The skin becomes more even, fine lines and wrinkles are reduced, pores are cleared. And most importantly – with the right tactics, even sensitive skin can get the full benefits of retinol.
Retinol is not an enemy, but a friend, even if your skin is sensitive. The main thing is to listen to yourself, take your time and choose the right product. Delicacy in care today is a trend not only in cosmetology, but also in our attitude to ourselves.
